The contextual nature of all travel

The very nature of travel involves experiencing new realities, gaining new perspectives, and creating a new personal frame of reference on the world – perhaps even on life itself.

Travel is always contextual whether the “destination” you are visiting is just around the corner or much farther afield.

And the context of the destination is an essential element of the travel experience. Like theatre, it is the setting – and frequently the “set”. It is what determines the meaning a visitor derives from the destination. And the context is the amalgam of circumstances in which the destination has evolved.

History and heritage are the key connectors to the past; but it is also the historical context that allows us to understand the challenges of the present, and even more importantly, to predict the future.

This is why the increasing number of engaged and participatory travellers, who by the way are demanding more “bang for their buck” and a more meaningful travel experience, vigorously engage in the context when they travel.

New technologies of all kinds allow us to focus our interests on the kind of travel experience that resonates with us.

This is especially true when it comes to history and heritage.

Colin Old’s ingenious and ongoing history and heritage project

Colin Old is the Communications Officer of one of Canada’s most intriguing national historic sites, Bethune Memorial House in Gravenhurst, Ontario.

For more information on this site and to listen to a chat between Colin and me about Dr. Norman Bethune, the “unlikely hero” who was born in this small town but went on eventually to become a key figure in Mao Zedong’s Communist Revolution in China, go to “Norman Bethune: A Doctor Without Borders”.

Colin’s Google National Historic Sites maps

Using the magic of Google, Colin has begun a project that is ongoing. It is also a project that provides a very “traveller-friendly” tool to all those who love to experience history and heritage through the medium of travel.

For each of the national historic sites that Colin identifies in his interactive Google maps, he also gives a brief and concise description of the site. In essence, Colin is providing an historical and literal roadmap for exploring fascinating, meaningful, and grassroots sites.

To see the sites that Colin has identified, click on the links below.

The Google technology also allows you to zoom in or out, to add your own comments, to forward the map (or individual historic sites) to friends and fellow historical-heritage travellers. The maps are also topographical so that you can get a “bird’s eye view” of the physical landscape of the featured region. And finally, you can also save each of the maps in your own personal Google map folder.

Photos and Wikipedia articles may also be brought up when selected from the dropdown “More” menu.

Also, bookmark this webpage because more such Google historical roadmaps from Colin will be added here.

Eastern Ontario

North and West of Hamilton, Ontario

Kingston, Ontario

Central Ontario

Other resources

National Historic Sites of Canada

Meaningfulness

News organizations frequently emphasize the importance of investigative reporting, stressing the principle that in order for a story to be “newsworthy” it must be current and it must mean something to people.

It goes without saying that responsible news gathering also results in stories that are informative, accurate, and in the best interests of the general public. And those who work in the news reporting ”business” also emphasize the importance of keen observational skills, in-depth research, and critical analysis.

But isn’t this also what travel journalists do?

Don’t we also strive to find meaning and make sense of the complex issues and cultures inherent in the destinations we visit, whether they are national, regional, or local? Do we also not serve in a problem-solving capacity in that we do our best to put the pieces of the puzzle together in such a way as to engage the hearts and minds of our readers? Are we also not “foreign correspondents” who encourage our consumers to engage in imaginative identification?

So how are the two professions similar? How are they different? In the news journalism business, reference is often made to “hard news” versus “soft news”. Are there equivalents in travel journalism?

Is travel journalism newsworthy?

I have heard it said that travel journalists should avoid contentious issues, and certainly not engage in “political” commentary. Well depending on how you define politics, this is easier said than done. Let me use Ottawa, the national capital of Canada, as a case in point.

This is a very story-rich city in which is inherent a political-historical journey of considerable importance. To truly understand Ottawa you have to examine the geopolitical context in which it evolved. And whereas the historic “issues” in what today is a quiet, unassuming national capital are profound, visitors may initially only see it as the lovely and orderly city it indeed is today. But if you delve deeper, you will find a very meaningful story with universal implications.

Incorporated in 1855, Ottawa was a remote lumber town and the by-product of colonialism. Located on the Ottawa River a “safe distance” from the Canada-United States border, the city was chosen as the capital by Queen Victoria because, as part of ”British North America”, there was always fear of invasion by our neighbours to the south. And as Canada evolved and finally became a sovereign and independent nation (considerably later than our “American” cousins), the imminent threat of cultural and economic hegemony continued to be felt.

As a nation that decided to remain loyal to “the Crown” – as opposed to engaging in a revolution, declaring its independence, and becoming a republic – as a Crown Colony – Canada made a significant collective decision to remain part of the British Empire, and later the British Commonwealth. To this day we still engage in a lot of national introspection in this regard.

And even though we share what once was called (in the days before the 9/11 attacks) “the longest undefended border in the world” with our neighbours south of the 49th parallel, we still find ourselves struggling with problematic transborder issues with them. This is what comes of “being in bed with an elephant”, as our most charismatic prime minister, Pierre Elliott Trudeau, once said to the Washington press corps.

And, although many outside of North America see little difference culturally between the two principal nations of North America, if you ignore the historic and political events that caused each to evolve quite differently – similar of course, but different nonetheless – you will have ”read” only part of the story.

The state of our craft today

In the 21st century, thanks in part to burgeoning new technologies, alternative media and alternative points of view about issues related to travel have increasingly seen the light of day. However, whereas we are no longer obliged (for commercial reasons) to just tell “good news” stories, as reponsible travel journalists and editors we still face the age-old challenge of producing coherent and literate travel stories that emphasize the qualitative features of the information as opposed to simply producing a corollary travel product that “sells” destinations.

A case in point

I became particularly aware recently of the essential “story behind the story” in Martinique.

On this beautiful and resource-rich island (resources that are both natural and cultural), I also learned that the institution of slavery is fundamental to a real understanding of the Creole culture of this French département.

Slavery was a tragic by-product of colonial empire-building; and to sustain itself the latter required exponential wealth and natural resources, such as the sugar plantations of the Caribbean. The African slaves brought to Martinique, as well as to other islands in the Caribbean, were of course considered only property and were treated as such. However, with the eventual abolition of slavery by France, a distinct and multidimensional Creole culture began to flourish and today is an important leitmotif in Martinique.

As is the case in many other post-colonial destinations, a geopolitical power shift and a renewed emphasis on the lessons of history have led to a tourism industry that is truly indigenous.

And Martinique is an important case study for anyone who has an interest in political sociology. Among other issues, this field of study focuses on the relations between state and society; and how social forces create a dynamic that defines what we often refer to simplistically as “culture”. But intrinsic to culture is the question of identity; and this is perhaps the most consciousness-raising aspect of travelling in Martinique – and writing about it.

The nature of news, culture, and storytelling

As travel journalists we are also cultural interpreters, not unlike news journalists who tell their “stories” in such a way as to inform and enlighten their readers. However, defining human culture, as I have suggested above, is as problematic or challenging as defining beauty, justice, or truth.

And yet in so many of our stories creating clarity about human culture is the essence of our message. And whereas we strive to avoid the “one size fits all” generic template of travel writing, we also are constantly challenged by the maxim that “We travel to explore the diversity of the human experience; and in so doing discover the commonality.”

All travel is a cultural experience on some level, whether it be just around the corner or far afield. And when we travel in a physical sense, we also travel in a conceptual sense. We paint portraits of human culture in all its hues and shades, and that includes the flaws. In so doing we collectively define who we are as a species.

And because it is also in our nature and our “job descriptions”, we also develop an experiential understanding of culture and how components such as belief systems, language, history, cultural objects, climate, and geography all shape our perceptions of “the other”.

As objective observers, we are often privileged to see first hand how the dynamic of culture implies power structures. And because we are in a position to constantly renew our frame of reference, we also frequently witness the juxtapostion of majority and minority worldviews.

And as journalists who make conscious and carefully considered choices as to how we will tell the story – not unlike news journalists who also build for their readers a specific frame of reference – we know (or should know) that all media is a construction, a point of view, an interpretation. I suspect that the more we examine how “the reporter” communicates what she or he has experienced (to the best of her or his ability), the better storytellers we become.

Storytelling is an ancient tradition and craft. It is also – like news – often issue-oriented, although the issues may be more universal than specific.

And as travel writers we also begin by asking fundamental questions. What do I see? What do I hear? What do I feel? What is really going on? This too is investigative journalism. As Aristotle pointed out in his fourth-century BCE treatise on the city-state, “politics” deals with the structure, organization, and administration of the state. And the interplay and interconnectedness of the state and the people is a critical question for all journalists, in either the field of news or travel. How do you separate the state from the culture? What is “the state” as opposed to the nation? Or the culture?

Since the recent FIJET Congress in Shanghai, I have had the privilege of engaging in an ongoing dialogue by email with a journalist I met in Beijing. Although for me it is somewhat “after the fact,” and yet ongoing (surely one of the key goals of travel) he has helped me fill in some of the gaps in terms of my awareness of Chinese culture. He has also helped me shed some of my ethnocentric baggage. In a number of ways he has encouraged me to heed the caveat “Judge me by my culture, not by my government.”

The comprehensive skills and challenges of travel journalists

The travel journalists I have met around the world represent one of the most eclectic and multidisciplinary groups of people you could imagine; and they come to the métier from many different backgrounds.

And when in our professional capacity as journalists we explore a destination and strive to define its cultural elements, we are required, of necessity, to play multiple roles including those of public educator, historian, geographer, sociologist, cultural anthropologist, political and social scientist, and economist – to mention just a few.

In brief, when we are really good at what we do we are indeed reporters but also interpreters. And because of the grassroots connections we are privileged to have in this industry, we tend not to lose sight of the fact that the travel and tourism industry contributes directly to the bottom line of any destination. The commercial implications of this can of course make what we do an even greater challenge and problematic in that we may feel compelled to either present a “glowing report” or to not do the story at all.

And this is where the issues of objectivity and neutrality play a role.

At one point in my career I was working with the national news team of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation and the people who produce its flagship show The National. During a particular editorial meeting in which we were struggling to decide on the “lineup” for the project I was working on, and whether a certain troubling story had real value as a news story, or whether by emphasizing it we might risk indulging in sensationalism, one of editors spoke about the difference between being objective and being neutral.

I was rather surprised to hear him, a hard-core news journalist, say that although news journalists must strive to be neutral on the issue or issues behind the story, they could not be totally objective because they are also human beings; and thus always subject to the same emotional or affective elements of the story as the general public. And as the reporters who have “been there”, we are obliged on our return to present “a true account”, whether we are news or travel journalists.

And whereas news journalists strive to present a true account of the facts (the “who, what, where, when, and why” of the story), we travel journalists also seek to do the same, at least initially. However given the distinct nature of our medium, we often strive to give our readers, listeners, and viewers something more – our interpretation of the “sense of place” as we have experienced it. We also of course strive for accuracy but in so doing we are also in the position of internalizing in the mind’s eye of the reader a sense of authenticity.

And I believe that in this regard, we may actually lean slightly toward the medium of the novelist, as opposed to that of the news journalist, because our stories often emphasize the aesthetic elements of the destination – and the human theatre we see in it. And herein lie the fundamental elements of storytelling: character, characterization, conflict, rising and falling action, dénouement, and sometimes, a universal lesson.

Role models of eclectic journalism

In the field of human resources, the recognition and enhancement of what are referred to as “tranferrable skills” – the comprehensive skills that an individual possesses which allow her or him to work effectively in multiple fields of endeavour – has became increasingly important in the 21st century.

In today’s interconnected world, such skill sets as the all-important communications skills (verbal and written), the ability to project and predict outcomes, abstract thinking, and other related conceptual skills, are recognized as critical to the functioning of any organization that wishes to succeed in what many see as a constantly evolving “new world order”.

Such individuals tend to have a high degree of cognitive skills but at the same time are also able to express and process the affective components of “the story”. This creative “balanced brain” approach to problem-solving and task management is what allows such individuals to find their niche almost anywhere – in what is becoming in many ways a borderless world.

Jefferson Sackey, a multidisciplinary journalist

A journalist born and raised in Ghana in West Africa, Jefferson Sackey is the kind of broadcast journalist who finds multiple layers of meaning in the stories he does.

For example, his profile of former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan (a Ghanaian himself) in which Jefferson explores the vision of this charismatic and inspiring world leader, is a tribute to the kind of transcendent ethos that Annan represents, and which sustains human civilization. At one point, Jefferson quotes Annan: ‘‘You must listen to not only what is being said, but what is not said, which is often much more important.”

And in Jefferson’s own words, he explains why leaders like Kofi Annan are visionaries.

“What puzzled me was the attention Kofi Annan gave to the various sides of the conflict even after the session closed at midnight. From the little I saw, I came to agree with the fact that no one has done more than Kofi Annan to revitalise the UN.

After taking office as the seventh Secretary-General in January 1997, he managed in a very short time to give the UN an external prestige and an internal morale the likes of which the organization had hardly seen in its over fifty-year history, with the possible exception of its very first optimistic years.

His position within the organization has no doubt benefited from his having devoted almost all his working life to the UN. Experience in a bureaucracy is not always the best springboard for action and fresh approaches to the outside world, but Annan brought about both…. Kofi Annan figured prominently in the efforts to resolve a whole series of international disputes: the repercussions of the Gulf War, the wars in the former Yugoslavia and especially in Kosovo, the status of East Timor, the war in the Congo, and the implementation of the UN resolutions concerning the Middle East and “land for peace” just to mention a few.

On the basis of renewed emphasis on the Declaration of Human Rights, Annan gave his office a more active part to play as a protector of those rights.”

As what I will refer to as a ”crossover” journalist, Jefferson tells stories, especially those with an African focus, that promote global understanding – surely a key objective of travel journalism.

To see a promotional video of Jefferson’s broadcast television show “International Assignment” click on the preceding link.

His documentary on “The Castro Years” is also indicative of the kind of “educational” backgrounder that has the ”added value” effect of encouraging participatory travel.

Julia Bayly and travel as cultural anthropology

Julia is une femme à tout faire, a newspaper journalist, a travel writer, and a dog musher!

She is also an example of a journalist who understand implicitly the diversity of the travel experience and how the latter engenders a much broader understanding of world events. She is also the kind of journalist who encourages people to “go and look”; but at the same time she personifies the principle that looking is not enough – when you travel you must also engage.

In a recent podcast I did with Julia she said the following about the increasingly proactive and enlightened traveller in today’s marketplace:

“They want to do. They want to experience. They want to meet people … to become part of that which they are looking at. At which point they become someone who is looked at both by the others who are there to look and by the people they are visiting. The basis of cultural anthropology is about participant observation … and doing minimal harm.”

To hear the complete podcast, click on the preceding link.

Ian and Tonya Fitzpatrick celebrate the responsible traveller

By way of their online radio show and website, Ian and Tonya have created a public forum in which key issues that have implications for the travel and tourism industry are explored. In their roles as travel journalists they also explore the human values inherent in a destination, as well as the enduring values in human culture itself.

As they say on their site, “Responsible travelers are conscientious and wise travelers. They understand that we all share a common humanity and seek purposeful travel opportunities that are transformative and fun. Responsible travelers enjoy authentic travel experiences and leave positive footprints by fostering global citizenship and cross-cultural understanding.”

For more information on their show and their approach to travel journalism, see Travel’n On Radio.

For additional information related to this subject, see:

“An Irish Scholar’s Challenge to Travel Writers”

“Ottawa: Grace, Dignity, and a Delightful State of Affairs”

“Multidimensional Martinique: Where Landscape Shapes Culture”

“The Redundant Search for a National Narrative.”

“Travel Writing and Humanistic Culture: a blunted impact?”

Cultural and other walls

After a first-time visit to China, including of course an exhilarating day on The Great Wall of China comfortably and delightfully embraced by a Saturday afternoon swarm of citizens of this great emerging nation, I have been pondering the role, function, and meaning of walls in general in human society.

Why do we build walls? What are they really all about? As travellers, what intercultural skills are at our disposal — if we are lucky or so inclined — to transcend cultural walls? For the truly intrepid traveller a borderless world, conceptually especially, is the best of all possible scenarios.

Historically walls have helped keep the “barbarians” at a safe distance and ensure the sanctity of hearth and home. But they also have been structures that can deprive and oppress those within. However, even though walls exclude the “outsider” or contain the occupants, they can also have an inclusive function.

Notwithstanding the excesses and necrosis of feudalistic societies, throughout history walls (or borders) have also served to protect and preserve primary cultures; contain, delineate, and define a collective ethos; centre a culture; and engender introspection while at the same time providing a safe glimpse of that which is away and beyond. Personal walls, figurative and literal, can also assure privacy and intimacy; perhaps our greatest luxury in many parts of the world.

But it all depends on the nature and purpose of the wall.

Shanghai: welcoming the world… this time on its own terms

In the exponential world of travel and tourism — considered by many to be the largest industry on the planet — there is no shortage of new players. Everyone wants “a piece of the action”; and why shouldn’t they? Walls are being breached all over the planet, thanks in part to a 21st-century approach to the marketing of travel and tourism.

As one of the newest, most entrepreneurial, and multidimensional destinations reaching out to this global travel market, Shanghai is marketing its distinct history, heritage, and contemporary culture in ways that may seem paradoxical, or even incongruous.

Who would have imagined that the largest Communist state in the world would be instituting free markets (of a sort) and competitive, capitalist marketing strategies? And who would have imagined that Chinese cities would be competing with each other for foreign visitors. A colleague in China tells me that there is a joke going around that “Every taxi driver in Beijing can discuss world affairs with you, while every taxi driver in Shanghai can discuss the stock market.” He also suggests that while Beijing is more a political city, Shanghai is more a commercial one; a city in which the citizens are more “practical.” However, he also reminded me that every Chinese city has its own distinctive character. But there is no doubt that these two cities, not unlike tourism destinations in what is a whole new world of diversified travel and tourism, are competitors for tourism revenues.

At the time of my visit, the city was in mega renovation mode as it also prepared for its really big moment on the world stage — Expo 2010 Shanghai. (And by the way, it has been reported that the world-famous Cirque de Soleil, a Canadian institution and creation which was conceived in Québec, will “co-create” the Canada Pavilion at Expo 2010 Shanghai.)

Shanghai is also a city in which you sense a personal and collective self-determination you might not have expected. And if, as I did, you take the opportunity to talk to locals, many of whom speak English and are more than willing to engage in dialogue with you, you will understand what I mean.

With the Mission Statement of “Better City, Better Life,” Shanghai has committed itself to what promises to be the largest World Exposition ever. More importantly, it has committed itself to urban renewal in which I hope that people really do come first. Furthermore, it has committed itself to a greener way of life, which without a doubt will be a major challenge.

When we toured the Expo site, I must admit to wondering how on Earth they were going to get this mammoth undertaking finished in time for the opening on May 1, 2010. However, given precedents such as the Beijing Olympics, the workforce available, and the hierarchical and centralized nature of Chinese government, I’m quite sure this world exposition will go down in the record books as one of the most successful, perhaps even “the best” to date.

I say “one of the best” advisedly because, although I was very impressed with Shanghai’s ambitious and long-term strategy of becoming a major player on the world stage — perhaps even giving Hong Kong a run for its money — my only caveat to the Shanghai Tourism Department is that the “bigger is better” mindset is not necessarily in the best interests of any destination. This may sound pedantic but bigger is not always better; better is better. And of course what is “better” is open to debate; however all parties concerned (including visitors to Shanghai) will need to apply their own judgement as to the validity of the ethical conundrum of harmonizing quantity with quality. Please don’t get me wrong; I was very impressed with a lot of the initiatives I saw in the works in Shanghai, but, to be quite frank, I was also concerned that China might fall into the trap of becoming derivative, succumbing to Dysneyfication, and emulating the worst of Western civilization. And what a pity that would be given China’s thousands of years of history, cultural, art, and philosophy. But as it has been said in reference to other nations, “Judge me by my culture, not by my government.”

However as a leading destination within the booming tourism industry of “The New China,” Shanghai historically has been a familiar face and international city since the 1930s especially, a whole other story that is being told boldly and explicitly in Shanghai today. But today it is also a revitalized and enterprising city that knows what it wants and how it is going to get it.

To many around the world, this new no-nonsense business culture of travel and tourism from the People’s Republic of China may seem at first glance somewhat befuddling or even disconcerting. After all, the emergence of China as a global, political, and economic power does, at first glance, seem to turn things upside down. There may be very good reasons (of national self-interest) that make people fear a new world order. Empires do decline.

But as the old saying goes, time marches on. And if I were a hotshot marketing executive in Shanghai, I might also be tempted to throw into the media mix, the equally familiar “Everything old is new again.”

A 21st century frame of reference

According to the Shanghai Statistics Bureau, the city had a population of 18.88 million by the end of 2008. Beijing is the runner up as China’s second largest city (after Shanghai), with more than 17 million people. While travelling in China, you always have to remember that this nation has a population of 1.3 billion people, the largest in the world, and that those numbers have many implications and ramifications. On the other hand, I rarely felt overwhelmed by masses of people. In fact, as was also my experience in India, I never felt that this was a faceless nation, which can be the impression one gets “from afar.”

It is also significant that the median age in China is 34.1, and that the one child policy is still (more or less) in place. As one pundit recently said, this is a major challenge to China because “It will get old before it gets rich.” This aging society factor is something we understand well in North America, but the demographics in China are exponentially more of a challenge.

To give a little more numerical perspective, the armed forces in China (also the largest in the world) have 2.3 million enlisted members. In terms of China’s literacy rate, 90.9 of the people can read and write, an enviable achievement. And by the way, there are 253 million Internet users in China. The issue of the Chinese government’s blocking of websites, however, (including initially, by the way yours truly the Philosophical Traveller) is just one of the major issues that the international community is monitoring. In an address to students during his recent visit to Shanghai, President Barack Obama criticized what he referred to as internet censorship, while addressing students, while at the same time praising freedom of expression and political participation.

(Readers and Internet users may also be interested in the China Internet Project’s website China Digital Times, but as is always the case in the media world, caveat lector.)

Also, in terms of the global travel and tourism industry, it is important to factor in that China’s economy is ranked third in the world, behind that of the United States and Japan with a GDP of $4.4 trillion.  And a United Nations World Tourism Organization study in 2007, found that that China will produce 100 million outbound tourists by 2020; thus becoming even more of a player in the competitive world of travel and tourism.

China would appear to be adapting to the passage of time, and other global events, such as the most recent worldwide recession. On October 1, 2009, it celebrated “Sixty Years of Brilliance”; the 60th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China.

And by the way, the Chinese Communist Party was founded in 1921 in Shanghai!

Timeless China

Whether time heals all wounds, as the saying goes, is of course debatable but time and history are also relentless. And the city of Shanghai, as a kind of New China prototype, is striving to take advantage of the 21st-century frame of reference in which it finds itself. At the same time, it is not turning a blind eye to the past; but in many ways is integrating the past with the present.

Images and Imagery of China

For visual narratives of Shanghai, Beijing, Xi’ian, Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Fengjing, visit my Flikr site using the links below.

Surreptitious Shanghai

Contemplating Four Chinese Cities

Grassroots Beijing and Environs

Video Moments in China

Classical Ballet With a Chinese Flavour

Jazz Ballet Chinese-Style

The Art of the Chinese Acrobat

Chinese Lotus Dancers

Generational voices

As we make our way on foot through the highlands of Martinique, I realize that we are also entering the heartland of a distinct Caribbean culture in which the voices of many generations still resonate.

We have meandered through what are called the Creole Gardens, and the complementary and stunning physical landscape in which they thrive. These small private farms on the volcanic slopes of Martinique’s lush interior are intricately and skillfully integrated into a nutrient-rich ecosystem, which in many ways is also the essence of this culturally resource-rich island.

Biological and cultural diversity

Sometimes called les jardins de résistance (the gardens of resistance), these well-ordered plots of land today are models of sustainability and regenerative agricultural practices. They are also representative of a culture of self-determination; and of a deep sense of interconnectedness between a benevolent terrain and the people it has nurtured.

This is the soul of Martinique, fondly known as the Fleur des Caraïbes − the flower of the Caribbean.

But the Creole Gardens are also appropriate symbols for the struggles and ultimate triumphs of the heterogeneous culture of Martinique, a collective self-actualization that has been in progress for hundreds of years. It is these layers of history and culture that make up the mosaic of Martinique, evoking an historical awareness of the long-ago colonial aspirations of European powers and of empire-building. But at the core of the complex narrative that is Martinique is also the institution of slavery.

When France abolished slavery in its overseas colonies in March 1818, only 45 years before Abraham Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation, a Creole culture began to flourish which would blend French traditions, mores, and a legal and social infrastructure with that of the oral history and traditions of people of African descent.

As was the case on other Caribbean islands, Martinique was part of the plantation economies in the West Indies colonies, of France especially. As a result, many of these islands began to thrive as centres for the export of sugar. But the forced labour of the black slaves on these sugar plantations was cruel and harsh, more so even than that of the cotton plantations of the American South.

And when emancipation came, the people of Martinique, who were then very much a blend of the Old and New Worlds, became the principal source of a renaissance and cultural élan by emphasizing this prodigious and magnificent island’s natural resources, and its intrinsic beauty. As Bertrand Russell said, “extreme hopes are born from extreme misery.” This is the transcendent beauty of Martinique.

Heritage travel

Canadians especially will identify with the island’s biodiversity as well as with its multicultural heritage; discovering layers of meaningfulness and a quiet passion that underscores the resourcefulness and insight that this rich natural environment engenders. And like the Creole Gardens, this relatively small island destination has an abundance of natural treasures as well as historical and heritage sites that both enlighten and entertain.

The hues and shades of the social fabric and natural history of Martinique are also reflected in the preservation and careful maintenance of sites such as the Parc régional de la Caravelle, an extensive 2.5-hectare nature preserve of considerable biological importance given its nutrient-rich mangroves. Nearby is the Château Dubuc, one of the island’s former sugar plantations with spectacular views and seascapes. The château dates from 1773 and today is tangible evidence of the historic and commercial importance of Martinique as a former colony of France. The Habitation Clément, a former rum distillery, today is a wonderful example of the kind of impeccably restored heritage site you will find in Martinique. The estate’s colonial-era buildings, contemporary art gallery, and luxuriant landscapes are worth a half-day visit at least.

A year-round destination, Martinique is known for its excellent infrastructure, accommodation to suit all needs and budgets, golf courses à la Robert Trent Jones, the glorious Tour des Yoles sailing race in August, horticultural travel at its best, and sustainable tourism.

The list of content-rich sites and unique experiences in Martinique is almost endless. But what also makes up the persona of Martinique is its aesthetic qualities and grassroots experiences. Here people and human culture matter, and in the classical French tradition everything is accomplished with finesse and style − especially in the culinary arts. Martinique is a gourmet destination in all respects, but it is also the beau idéal of what has come to be known as “slow food” culture. Local markets, especially the one in the capital of Fort-de-France, epitomize eating well.

The economy of Martinique is strong because of a discerning tourism industry which celebrates the island’s diversity. Agriculture is also a fundamental component of the economy; in particular in the growing of organic foods, the cultivation of bananas, and to some extent sugar cane, which today is used primarily for the production of rum. Fourteen per cent of the active population of Martinique work in the agricultural industry, compared to four per cent in what Martinicans call France Métropolitaine − “Metropolitan France”. Therefore, for those interested in agritourism − one of the fastest growing sectors in the tourism industry − immersing yourself in this harmonious landscape can be a purposeful and enriching travel experience.

Value-added Martinique

The alluring ecosystems of Martinique create a medley of sensory experiences in a landscape that welcomes up close and personal travel. It is indeed “the flower of the Caribbean”, an eclectic, inclusive, and sensory-rich destination where beauty is in the eye of the beholder – everywhere.

And Martinique’s beauty is all-encompassing.

…

Personal recommendations in Martinique

La Savane des Esclaves

This superb attraction is another excellent example of how the people of Martinique preserve and create an in-depth awareness of their heritage. Conceived and managed by Gilbert Larose, a highly committed and self-taught historian, cultural anthropologist, and environmentalist, the Savane des Esclaves is a walk through Creole history and a lesson in how slavery played a key role in the Caribbean.  See La Savane des Esclaves

Habitation Clément

As I have mentioned in the text above, this former sugar plantation and rum distillery is also social and cultural history at its best. It is also an art gallery and, in my view, a wonderful example of how contemporary art installations fulfill many purposes. See Habitation Clément.

Le Tour des Yoles

A yole is a unique and indigenous boat traditionally used by Martinique fishers; and was often used to travel from island to island throughout the Caribbean. It too is social history in Martinique. The famous race Le Tour des Yoles Rondes takes place in August and is an event that draws large crowds of locals as well as international visitors. It is also one of the biggest and most fun events of the year in Martinique. See Le Tour des Yoles. At this site you can see actual videos. For more photos see Images and Imagery in Martinique on my Flikr site.

E-discover and Bruno Dompierre

The Segway has become a popular means of exploring a number of destinations. You can either hike or go by Segway along what is called Sentiers des Caraïbes (The Paths of the Carib Indians) which runs along beautiful beaches on the southern coast of Martinique, through local campgrounds and picnic areas, and through important wildlife viewing and indigenous ecosystems. For more information watch the video The Coolest Way to See Martinique. See also www.e-discover.fr.

Parc naturel régional de la Martinique

On a peninsula stretching out into the Caribbean is a Martinique ecotourism destination that for lovers of all things natural and biological, should not be missed. This regional park has numerous hiking trails that take you through Mangroves all the way to the sea. If you go with a guide, you will also be engaging in one of the best life-long learning through travel experiences in the Caribbean. See Martinique Nature.

Nearby is also the Château Dubuc, another historical and heritage site that is not to be missed. The views from this property are also stupendous and despite its troubled history, one understands why the European powers saw this part of the world as a source of wealth. See Château Dubuc.

Agritourism in Martinique

This form of grassroots travel is becoming increasingly popular around the world as travellers become more and more conscious of the important (and sometimes precarious) earth-based resources. One such farm-stay experience is provided by Auberge Le Domaine de la Vallée. See  www.martinique-domaine-vallee.com.

Golfing in Martinique

If you golf in Martinique, the biggest challenge will be keeping your eye on the ball, as opposed to being distracted by the landscapes and seascapes. See www.golfmartinique.com

Le Domaine de Saint-Aubin, Trinité, Martinique

This former sugar plantation is an excellent choice for those who want a quiet “home away from home” experience. It is also a a gastronomic experience. See http://ledomainesaintaubin.com.

Pierre & Vacances

For families especially, this full service and “full program” vacation stay hotel (an institution unto itself in France) will provide for all your needs. See www.pierreetvacances.com

Hotel Bambou

Each individual bungalow is decorated in traditional Creole style and wins my vote for most traveller-friendly accommodation on the island of Martinique. See www.hotelbambou.fr

La Table de Mamy Nounou and Hôtel La Caravelle

Another gastronomic treasure, as well as an authentic, and low-key vacation stay, this unique accommodation on a hillside above the sea and its “bonne table” is for those especially who appreciate quality as opposed to quantity. See Hôtel La Caravelle.

Tak Tak

The Tak Tak “network” (the word is Creole and means fireflies) may be the most grassroots and authentic travel experience I have had in recent years. It is a network of travel suppliers, rural gîtes (more or less the equivalent of bed and breakfast accommodation), and artisans, restaurants, nature/soft adventure experiences, in-depth historical travel experiences, and ecotourism travel. As a collective of service providers, Tak Tak is a low budget alternative to those who appreciate getting a genuine “up close and personal” view of this amazing Caribbean landscape. You may begin your day with a Creole breakfast and you will be hosted and enlightened by Martiniquais people who have a real commitment to the history and biodiversity of their island. And if you don’t speak, French do not worry. The principles and values of Tak Tak embody hospitality. They will manage to communicate with you in your language of choice somehow. What you will experience is an intercultural dialogue on a profound level. See www.taktak-martinique.com

Club Med Les Boucaniers

I have never considered myself a Club Med type, however the Club Med chain has diversified considerably and offers many amenities to many types of clients. This property especially is wonderfully situated, well-planned in terms of its extensive layout, types of accommodation and amenities available, and in the spirit of Club Med a travel supplier that respects your sense of privacy and personal choice. See Club Med Les Boucaniers (Buccaneer’s Creek).

L’Hôtel Carayou

This medium-size hotel directly across the bay from Fort-de-France (and accessible by ferry to the capital) is an excellent location in the laid-back town of Trois Ilets where you can walk to many local attractions and amenities, especially dining.  See www.hotel-carayou.com.

Restaurant 1643

Another slightly off the beaten track gem, this restaurant (and yes the house in which it is located was built in 1643) is quintessential Martinique. See www.restaurant1643.com.

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Visualize Martinique

(a) Images and Imagery in Martinique

(b) Walking Through the Creole Gardens of Martinique

(c) The Coolest Way to See Martinique

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Other resources

(a) While http://www.martinique.org is the official international tourism website of Martinique, http://www.lamartinique.ca is the Canadian site.

(b) Air Canada has non-stop flights from Montreal to Fort-de-France, the capital of Martinique.

(c) France d’outremer

Martinique is an official overseas département of France, one of four including Guadeloupe, French Guyana in South America, and the island of La Réunion in the Indian Ocean. The island is as much a part of France as Paris or the Dordogne.

(d) Produced by Martinique Tourism, http://www.martinique-bonjour.com has an English link. There is also an English print version of the guide

(e) A link to parks and gardens in Martinique can be found in English at http://www.martinique.org/activities/parks.php. It is part of the “Official Website of the Martinique Tourism Authority”.

(f) This particular PDF site is particularly useful to both repeat visitors and first time visitors to Martinique. See Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme.

(g) For more perspective on the institution of slavery in Martinique and the Caribbean see French Slavery.

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See also … “A Walk Through the Creole Gardens of Martinique”

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A version of this article was first published in Dreamscapes magazine.

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And … be sure to see their e-book

The far north of Planet Earth has always seemed forbidding. But in this age of global warming, maybe those melting northern glaciers will h! ave a “trickle-down” effect. So get to the north before it becomes south!For your other travel editorial needs, search our database now!
Northern Exposure Glenn A Baker, currently recovering from open-heart surgery, is entranced by Santa’s helpers in Lappland. And Glenn – from all of us, get well soon!	The GTW Team Fiona Harper Glenn A. Baker Graham Simmons Karen Halabi Paul Dymond Philip Game Sally Hammond Sheriden Rhodes Thomas E. King Tricia Welsh Is Arctic warming unstoppable? This question is posed by the respected journal New Scientist, in its sobering September 2009 article Has runaway Arctic warming already begun?. Whatever the truth, visitors to northern climes should now pack appropriately – not forgetting swimming costume and Kool-aid. EMAIL US
Thomas E King taks in the open air museum of Skansen, marvels at the early 17th century warship Vasa and cruises in style on the canals of Stylish Stockholm
Sally Hammond explores Cornwall , a place where the English language nearly falls off the map.
Russia’s remote Kuril Islands are not a people place, says Philip Game. But they are like stepping stones between East and West.
All those jokes about the unwashed English are now passé. Sheriden Rhodes visits the ancient Roman city of Bath, where Bath-time has come in the form of the Thermae Bath Spa
The Svalbard Islands belonging to Norway, are so far north that they’re nearly off the planet, reports Graham Simmons.
<> Tricia Welsh touches base from the stylish northeastern England city of Newcastle, which has become one of the hottest places on the planet to visit (will global warming make it even hotter?)
For more stories, check out the Global Travel Writers list of articles by Country
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… a podcast with Graeme Calder

Culture and Permaculture

Culture is one of the prime reasons we travel. And travel as a unique human behaviour — as well as a concept — is always a process; never a one-dimensional event.

In the world of travel and tourism we often talk about intercultural understanding, and travel as a means of achieving universal aims and objectives.

Permaculture is also a conceptual and pragmatic way of interacting productively with the many “systems” inherent in the universe and in human communities. It is therefore a philosophical endeavour, a mindset, but above all it is a common sense approach to land management.

It is also not difficult to draw parallels between the Permaculture movement and the travel and tourism industry, given especially the regeneration of the Heritage Movement in which a return to a grassroots and meaningful form of travel is emphasized.

In addition, the increasing emphasis on responsible tourism (often referred to as green tourism or sustainable tourism) is also for many people a preferred method of travel which follows similar principles and ethics to that of the Permaculture movement.

Permaculture emphasizes the designing of human settlements and sustainable agricultural systems which in turn reflect the natural relationships found in the universe. The movement began as an agricultural phenomenon and quickly became an international movement, and for many a way of life.

Increasingly in the world of travel journalism — a corollary “system” to travel and tourism — many are also striving to go beyond the “Where’s the beach?” school of solely consumer-oriented travel. By emphasizing the advantages of a more integrated, reciprocal, and participatory approach to travel, the travel experience is re-affirmed as the most experiential form of learning.

And as you will hear Graeme Calder explain in this podcast, there are many opportunities throughout the world to “travel” in a Permaculture mode.

Statistical footnote

According to a recent Yahoo Travel/Forbes Traveler.com article, the essence of Permaculture is also statistically consistent with travellers who want a “big trip, low impact” travel experience.

“Along those lines, sustainable and eco-friendly tourism are also on the rise–and affecting people’s travel decisions. A survey conducted by the U.S. Travel Association and Ypartnership in July 2009 shows a 9% increase from 2007 in awareness of “green travel.” Six in 10 respondents in the same survey said they believed environmental programs at travel services could have a positive impact on the environment.

The general idea of such an excursion involves minimizing harmful effects on the environment and making sure the money tourists spend in a country stays there. For example, tourists stay at local accommodations and participate in fair trade, buying goods directly from the makers.”

To read more go to “World’s most unique places to visit” by Becky Chung.

Permaculture Resources

P3 Permaculture Design

Pacific Permaculture

The Permaculture Research Institute of Australia

The Montréal Bisophere

The Green Barn Nursery

The Permaculture Guild of Montreal

Earthship Biotecture

The 9th International Permaculture Conference

“Common Circle Education – Permaculture Design Course” (Youtube)

“Permaculture in Action – Greening The Desert” (Youtube)

Art and travel

In the world of travel and tourism, the arts are the principal reason why many people travel. To some extent, however, travel can be risky business.

In his wonderful book The Art of Travel, Alain de Botton says:

“A danger of travel is that we may see things at the wrong time, before we have had an opportunity to build up the necessary receptivity, so that new information is as useless and fugitive as necklace beads without a connecting chain.”

On the other hand we may not have the necessary receptivity to see certain realities because of the old adage of not seeing the forest for the trees.

Art and Climate Change

Jeroen Bechtold is a ceramic artist that I have had the pleasure of meeting, interviewing, and writing about.

His new series “15 Claims” which focuses on Climate Change is a remarkable work that accomplishes many artistic and human objectives.

He is a traveller and artist in the most comprehensive sense of the term; and in that regard he is someone who sees the forest and the trees.

For more information, visit:

Jeroen Bechtold Ceramics, Amsterdam, NL

See also…

The Virtual and Other Realities of Jeroen Bechtold

and

Jeroen Bechtold: A Dutch Ceramist in China, Australia … and Red Deer!

A preview

To see a preview of these new works, click here.

Photograph courtesy of Jeroen Bechtold

To listen to this radio interview, click on the link below.

For a number of years I had the privilege of working with Roy Lowey: pilot, retired airline executive, owner-operator of his own airlines, radio host (WTMY Sarasota, Sunday Travel Radio, grandpa, man-for-all-seasons, and one of the funniest and most down-to-earth people I have ever known — and travelled with.

On his radio show he engages in dialogues with many different people from all sectors of the travel and tourism industry.

In a recent segment of his show, we talked about Martinique.

To see more images of Martinique, click on the following links:

Images and Imagery of Martinique

Walking Through the Creole Gardens of Martinique

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And here is Roy Lowey … the man himself!

For more information on Roy’s show visit

Talking Travel

The annual World Congress of the World Federation of Journalists and Travel Writers (FIJET) took place in Shanghai, China.

There is little doubt that human beings are a migratory species. However, even though most of us moved beyond the transient stage in our evolution and “settled down” in permanent communities – in which our diverse cultures soon began to take root – many of us continued, of necessity, to migrate throughout the world.

There are of course many historical, economic, and sociological reasons why human culture (in its various hues and shades) continued to spread far from and beyond the initial “borders” in which it developed; but history shows how these migrations also contributed to the mosaic of other indigenous cultures, and to human culture in general.

As we look to the near future, and our FIJET Congress in Shanghai, it is perhaps worthwhile attempting to get an overview of the enormous contributions that Chinese culture has made to global culture – and to many of our individual national cultures.

The numbers speak for themselves

Worldwide, there are an estimated 40,000,000 “Overseas Chinese.” These are people of Chinese birth or descent; and we must not forget the additional numbers of individuals of partial Chinese ancestry who may also consider themselves as belonging to the Chinese diaspora.

The latter term, by the way, is from the Greek and means dispersion. It also has connotations of forced exile, and a collective migration out of the traditional homeland. Also implied in the term is the immigrant experience of living as a minority in a majority culture.

In many nations around the world, this minority cultural experience has often been the norm for Overseas Chinese, and a significant hardship. In Canada for example, where I live, people of Chinese descent are the largest non-European ethnic origin in our nation today; and the fifth largest of any ethnic origin in Canada other than English or French. Most were also born outside Canada. In fact, when you include all Chinese dialects and the two principal languages of Mandarin and Cantonese, Chinese is the third largest mother tongue in Canada after English and French.

But we have a number of skeletons in the Canadian historical closet, one of them being the Chinese Head Tax. Although Chinese workers (male primarily) were the main immigrant group that built our transcontinental railway – the “national dream” that united Canada east to west and was one of the most important factors in our becoming an independent nation – the head tax was first imposed when the Canadian Government passed the Chinese Immigration Act of 1885 whose purpose was to discourage Chinese from entering Canada once the railway was completed.

A blatant example of discrimination, it took until June 22, 2006 for the Canadian government to issue a formal apology (via our current Prime Minister Steven Harper) to the Chinese Canadian community for the prejudicial use of a head tax and the exclusion of Chinese immigrants to Canada. In his speech to Parliament he said, “… we fully accept the moral responsibility to acknowledge these shameful polices of our past.”

And although people of Chinese descent are the communicators of one of the world’s greatest cultures, many have experienced similar negative experiences elsewhere on the planet. For reasons that are of course complex but nonetheless problematic, Chinese culture – which is often highly misunderstood in terms of its extraordinary diversity – the cultural “gifts” that the Chinese people collectively have contributed to human society may be unparalleled.

Integration and heritage preservation

The Chinese people have always been a migratory culture. As early as the Ming Dynasty they were exploring trade opportunities in the South China Sea and the Indian Ocean. Different waves of emigration (and subsequently immigration) followed to regions as diverse as North America, Oceania, the Caribbean, Latin America, South Africa, Russia, and Southeast Asia. In the 19th century, the age of colonialism was at its height and the many multinational colonies far from their cultural homelands required labourers, and China often supplied a pool of such workers. These people of course were most often economic refugees and frequently they worked in backbreaking and dangerous jobs such as the building of railroads and mining. This, as I have indicated, was how Canada’s transcontinental railways completed the east-west natural flow of which the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes were the first stage in the longest freshwater waterway to the interior of the North American continent.

As economic refugees, these migrant Chinese struggled long and hard to improve their lives and to successfully integrate into the “host” nation. This was not always easy as racism and other forms of discrimination often relegated them to the status of second class citizens. However, as difficult as their lives were overseas (often living isolated existences; for example along the route of the aptly named Canadian Pacific Railway where even today you can find small Chinese businesses in the smallest of communities) what they did manage to do was to hang on to their culture. And as we all know, language is the core of any culture. In many ways the Chinese who emigrated throughout the world became role models for preserving thousands of years of history and art, while at the same time contributing to infrastructure-building far from “home.” And they continued to speak Chinese.

Subsequent historic events both slowed and precipitated further emgiration. Following challenges posed by emigration regulations in the 1950s, the first steps to the transformation of Hong Kong from a British colony to a Chinese territory began in 1984. New waves of emigration began again but slowed by 1997 when China reclaimed sovereignty over the colony.

And as we now know, China has emerged (along with India) as one of the most important “business partners” in the global marketplace, especially in certain countries of Africa where development is the highest priority. The entry (or re-entry) of China as a major player in the global economy has also led to a renewed interest in all things Chinese, especially in the field of the arts. However, as is the case with any national group that leaves its cultural homeland, the Chinese have assimilated to a lesser or greater extent into the mainstream culture of the host nation. But assimilation can be a two-way street.

While assimilating and accommodating themselves to their overseas adopted nations, the Chinese also contribute to the overal “persona” of the host nation’s culture. And as we travel journalists know full well, human culture is not a static entity; it is dynamic and constantly evolving. What is interesting however, and this would appear to be global phenomenon, is that cultural diversity, multiculturalism, and the transcending of borders (both geographical, cultural, and conceptual) is becoming the new mainstream. This is especially true, for example, in Toronto which many people consider to be the the most multicultural city on the North American continent.

A question of identity

In my belief, one of the strongest attributes of travel journalists is our ability to identify with “the other.” Like all skills, this ability to relate comes with practice; with frequently “getting up close and personal” with the subject matter. In our business, that subject matter is human culture. And at this point I would like to leave the last word to Margaret Mead, the well-known American anthropolgist who said:

“If we are to achieve a richer culture, rich in contrasting values, we must recognize the whole gamut of human potentialities, and so weave a less arbitrary social fabric, one in which each diverse gift will find a fitting place.”
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Three Interesting and Related Resources

Chinatown Europe: An Exploration of Chinese Identity in the 1990s
The Chinese Cultural Centre of Greater Toronto
World Tourism Day
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FIJET (Fédération Internationale des Journalistes et Écrivains du Tourisme/World Federation of Journalists and Travel Writers) is an official member of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO).

… including a podcast with Daniel Pouplot President and Director of la Fédération québécoise de la marche

The randonnée

Like so many words and so many cultural experiences, “it sometimes loses in the translation.”

A randonnée in French suggests a purposeful way of getting about – on foot – but at the same time there is an element of freedom that the word signifies. Whereas the word marche is probably closest to the English word “walk” or “walking,” randonnée evokes images and sensations of discovery, of getting closer to the landscape (physical, human, and cultural); and the term also suggests a means of travel that is at the pace of nature itself.

And as we discovered, Martinique is an island in which you can travel at leisure — and at your own pace.

A timeless concept

The Fédération québécoise de la marche is a not-for-profit organization that has been in existence for more than 30 years. A member-based organization, its mandate is to promote and develop what may seem to be a simple human activity, that of walking.

And yet, walking takes many forms,  from adventurous trekking, to hiking, to what in Britain is called “rambling,” to  a gentle stroll through a content-rich environment or milieu, whether it be urban or rural.

The culture of walking

As a cultural activity and a fundamental means of travel, walking has always been a principal means of exploring any destination whether it be international, national, regional, or local.

And the Fédération québécoise de la marche fulfills many functions related to this primary form of travel including providing information on special walks, bringing together all kinds of different clubs devoted to walking, and encouraging and promoting the development of pedestrian-friendly pathways.The association is also a role model for a healthy lifestyle which also emphasizes the leisure benefits of simply walking.

Made up of over 3000 members in the province of Québec and 100 other related organizations, the association also produces a magazine called Marche-Randonnée, topographical guides for walkers, and even a resource guide for walking and snowshoe trekking in the winter; an activity that is very much at the heart of the québécois culture.

The Fédération is also responsible for special events such as an annual “Festival of Walking,” “Snowshoe Festival,” and a national day devoted to the creation of walking paths. Above all, the Fédération solicits funding that supports its many activities.

Martinique as a walkers’ paradise

I met Daniel and his partner Nicole Blondeau on the island of Martinique.

La Martinique (an official département of France) is a luxuriant cultural environment in a topographical, historical, and environmental sense.

Volcanic in nature, this is a multidimensional island destination that is as fertile culturally as it is agriculturally. Furthermore, Martinique is an island that is a mosaic of sensory experiences, and a destination in which you can get up close and personal with the landscape.

And as we often say, landscape shapes culture.

Organic farming Creole-style

In Martinique, the Creole Gardens are one of the best examples you will find anywhere of good land management, of cultural self-determination, and of natural beauty.

Without a doubt, the economy of Martinique benefits from tourism because of its natural and cultural diversity. The industry of agriculture however is also a fundamental component of the island’s economy, in particular the cultivation of bananas, and to some extent sugar cane which is used primarily for the production of rum. It is important to point out that 14 per cent of the active population of Martinique work in the agricultural industry (compared to four per cent in what the Martinicans call La Métropolitaine ( “metropolitan France”).

The “Creole Gardens” we visited in the highlands of the interior of the island are maintained by individuals and families who work in other sectors of the economy of Martinique but at the same time pursue centuries-old farming practices on the nutrient-rich slopes and small cleared fields of the island.

For those interested in agritourism (one of the fastest growing sectors of the travel and tourism industry) a walk through this unique and very bio-diversified terrain is a highly engaging and horticulturally-rich travel experience.

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Other walks recommended by Daniel Pouplot and Nicole Blondeau

1. The “wet” rainforest

Starting from Fond-Saint-Denis, just east of the old capital of Saint-Pierre, Daniel and Nicole completed a circuit in the tropical forests of the neighbouring mountains. Towards the end of their walk, they also visited a section of Le canal des Esclaves (the Slave Canal) which is an historic small irrigation canal constructed by slaves about 1770.

Their guide was Richard Montredon of the tour provider Ékokay, a “green tourism” company that also specializes in walking tours.

2. The nature reserve of la Caravelle

I also had the pleasure of accompanying Daniel and Nicole on a walk through this natural reserve on a peninsula in the north-east part of the island. Le Parc Naturel Régional de la Caravelle is especially well-known for its mangrove and dry forest, both unique environments that are excellent examples of natural sustainable and regenerative ecosystems. Nearby are also the ruins of Château Dubuc, a stunning site with magnificent views. Near the town of La Trinité, the Château is also an important heritage site as it is an historic sugar plantation, in terms of its black history, and in terms of the role it played in the extermination of the Carib Indians (who  called the island Madinina the “island of flowers”), and because it was a site known for its extensive smuggling operations.

3. La Trace des Caps

Martinique has an official Bureau de la Randonnée, a government agency that promotes walking throughout the island. La Trace des Caps is a walking trail that follows some of the most beautiful beaches you will ever see in the Caribbean, along the most southernly coast of the island. Its total length is 27 kilometres but you can begin and end your walk at numerous locations.

Daniel and Nicole were accompanied by their guide Éric Exili, de Sentiers des Caraïbes. (Be sure to watch the video “The Coolest Way to Visit Martinique.”)

4. Mt. Pelée

On May 8, 1902, Mt. Pelée erupted, destroying the city of Saint-Pierre, once known as the Paris of the Caribbean. The eruption also killed over 30,000 people. However, as ironic as it may seem, and as is the case in so many areas of volcanic activity throughout the world, the soil eventually became enriched again and the inhabitants (farmers especially) returned because the land was cheap.

One can walk up and around Mt. Pelée using a number of different routes and hiking trails. Daniel and Nicole followed the Aileron trail on the eastern side of the mountain. In my chat with Daniel, you will hear him refer to “the Chinese” (in French Le Chinois) which is the summit of the mountain because it is said to resemble a conical Chinese hat. Often in the clouds, Mt. Pelée, as Daniel points out, is also a botanist’s dream.

Their guide was Christian Bapin of the company Terre de Mornes.

I found the article “How Volcanoes Work” on the website of the University of San Diego especially useful for understanding the importance of Mt. Pelée and other volcanoes like it.

5. The Creole Gardens Walk

For me, the most significant walk in socio-cultural terms was our walk through the Creole Gardens in the highlands of Martinique accompanied by one of the most learned and committed guides I have ever had the pleasure of knowing.

Patrick Duchel is un homme à tout faire (a jack of all trades but also a master of many). The proprietor of the gîte aux Z’Amandines (a rural hospitality provider not unlike a bed and breakfast), Patrick is a member of the Réseau Tak-Tak, a collective of relatively low-cost suppliers of accommodation, soft adventure activities, and other hospitality providers, all of which emphasize the “up close and personal” authentic travel experience in Martinique. For those who are especially interested engaging in first-hand encounters with the history, heritage, and rich ecosystems of Martinique, the Réseau Tak-Tak may be for you.

As you will see from my Flikr slideshow, Patrick took us into the heart of the Creole experience in Martinique. Along the way, he also gave us lessons in biology and botany that provided an in-depth understanding of this island’s extraordinary natural resources. And experiencing first hand “the interconnectedness and interdependence of all things,” we also were given perspective and insights into the complex and rich history of Martinique.

The Creole Gardens are also referred to as Les jardins de résistance (the gardens of resistance), which is both an appropriate metaphor for this nutrient-rich landscape but also a very realistic expression of Creole history in Martinique and the struggles of people of African descent in this former French colony.

When slavery was finally abolished by France in its overseas colonies, Black Martinicans gained the right to own property in the interior. Initially, farming these small and quite inaccessible plots of land, was certainly a challenge for newly emancipated people. However — and this is why Martinique is also an island that symbolizes self-determination — today these gardens are models of sustainable agriculture.

For more information see the following:

Organic agriculture in Martinique

What Lies Beneath? Cultural Excavation in Neocolonial Martinique

Space and identity in Martinique: towards a new reading of the spatial history of the peasantry

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To take a virtual walk through the Creole Gardens of Martinique, click here.

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Resources

Marche et Randonnée

The official website of Martinique

“The Coolest Way to Visit Martinique”

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COMING SOON to a national Canadian magazine:

“Multidimensional Martinique: Where Landscape Shapes Culture”

ALSO COMING SOON to The Philosophical Traveller

“Le Tour des Yoles: A Singular Sailing Race in Martinique”