Cultural and other walls

After a first-time visit to China, including of course an exhilarating day on The Great Wall of China comfortably and delightfully embraced by a Saturday afternoon swarm of citizens of this great emerging nation, I have been pondering the role, function, and meaning of walls in general in human society.

Why do we build walls? What are they really all about? As travellers, what intercultural skills are at our disposal — if we are lucky or so inclined — to transcend cultural walls? For the truly intrepid traveller a borderless world, conceptually especially, is the best of all possible scenarios.

Historically walls have helped keep the “barbarians” at a safe distance and ensure the sanctity of hearth and home. But they also have been structures that can deprive and oppress those within. However, even though walls exclude the “outsider” or contain the occupants, they can also have an inclusive function.

Notwithstanding the excesses and necrosis of feudalistic societies, throughout history walls (or borders) have also served to protect and preserve primary cultures; contain, delineate, and define a collective ethos; centre a culture; and engender introspection while at the same time providing a safe glimpse of that which is away and beyond. Personal walls, figurative and literal, can also assure privacy and intimacy; perhaps our greatest luxury in many parts of the world.

But it all depends on the nature and purpose of the wall.

Shanghai: welcoming the world… this time on its own terms

In the exponential world of travel and tourism — considered by many to be the largest industry on the planet — there is no shortage of new players. Everyone wants “a piece of the action”; and why shouldn’t they? Walls are being breached all over the planet, thanks in part to a 21st-century approach to the marketing of travel and tourism.

As one of the newest, most entrepreneurial, and multidimensional destinations reaching out to this global travel market, Shanghai is marketing its distinct history, heritage, and contemporary culture in ways that may seem paradoxical, or even incongruous.

Who would have imagined that the largest Communist state in the world would be instituting free markets (of a sort) and competitive, capitalist marketing strategies? And who would have imagined that Chinese cities would be competing with each other for foreign visitors. A colleague in China tells me that there is a joke going around that “Every taxi driver in Beijing can discuss world affairs with you, while every taxi driver in Shanghai can discuss the stock market.” He also suggests that while Beijing is more a political city, Shanghai is more a commercial one; a city in which the citizens are more “practical.” However, he also reminded me that every Chinese city has its own distinctive character. But there is no doubt that these two cities, not unlike tourism destinations in what is a whole new world of diversified travel and tourism, are competitors for tourism revenues.

At the time of my visit, the city was in mega renovation mode as it also prepared for its really big moment on the world stage — Expo 2010 Shanghai. (And by the way, it has been reported that the world-famous Cirque de Soleil, a Canadian institution and creation which was conceived in Québec, will “co-create” the Canada Pavilion at Expo 2010 Shanghai.)

Shanghai is also a city in which you sense a personal and collective self-determination you might not have expected. And if, as I did, you take the opportunity to talk to locals, many of whom speak English and are more than willing to engage in dialogue with you, you will understand what I mean.

With the Mission Statement of “Better City, Better Life,” Shanghai has committed itself to what promises to be the largest World Exposition ever. More importantly, it has committed itself to urban renewal in which I hope that people really do come first. Furthermore, it has committed itself to a greener way of life, which without a doubt will be a major challenge.

When we toured the Expo site, I must admit to wondering how on Earth they were going to get this mammoth undertaking finished in time for the opening on May 1, 2010. However, given precedents such as the Beijing Olympics, the workforce available, and the hierarchical and centralized nature of Chinese government, I’m quite sure this world exposition will go down in the record books as one of the most successful, perhaps even “the best” to date.

I say “one of the best” advisedly because, although I was very impressed with Shanghai’s ambitious and long-term strategy of becoming a major player on the world stage — perhaps even giving Hong Kong a run for its money — my only caveat to the Shanghai Tourism Department is that the “bigger is better” mindset is not necessarily in the best interests of any destination. This may sound pedantic but bigger is not always better; better is better. And of course what is “better” is open to debate; however all parties concerned (including visitors to Shanghai) will need to apply their own judgement as to the validity of the ethical conundrum of harmonizing quantity with quality. Please don’t get me wrong; I was very impressed with a lot of the initiatives I saw in the works in Shanghai, but, to be quite frank, I was also concerned that China might fall into the trap of becoming derivative, succumbing to Dysneyfication, and emulating the worst of Western civilization. And what a pity that would be given China’s thousands of years of history, cultural, art, and philosophy. But as it has been said in reference to other nations, “Judge me by my culture, not by my government.”

However as a leading destination within the booming tourism industry of “The New China,” Shanghai historically has been a familiar face and international city since the 1930s especially, a whole other story that is being told boldly and explicitly in Shanghai today. But today it is also a revitalized and enterprising city that knows what it wants and how it is going to get it.

To many around the world, this new no-nonsense business culture of travel and tourism from the People’s Republic of China may seem at first glance somewhat befuddling or even disconcerting. After all, the emergence of China as a global, political, and economic power does, at first glance, seem to turn things upside down. There may be very good reasons (of national self-interest) that make people fear a new world order. Empires do decline.

But as the old saying goes, time marches on. And if I were a hotshot marketing executive in Shanghai, I might also be tempted to throw into the media mix, the equally familiar “Everything old is new again.”

A 21st century frame of reference

According to the Shanghai Statistics Bureau, the city had a population of 18.88 million by the end of 2008. Beijing is the runner up as China’s second largest city (after Shanghai), with more than 17 million people. While travelling in China, you always have to remember that this nation has a population of 1.3 billion people, the largest in the world, and that those numbers have many implications and ramifications. On the other hand, I rarely felt overwhelmed by masses of people. In fact, as was also my experience in India, I never felt that this was a faceless nation, which can be the impression one gets “from afar.”

It is also significant that the median age in China is 34.1, and that the one child policy is still (more or less) in place. As one pundit recently said, this is a major challenge to China because “It will get old before it gets rich.” This aging society factor is something we understand well in North America, but the demographics in China are exponentially more of a challenge.

To give a little more numerical perspective, the armed forces in China (also the largest in the world) have 2.3 million enlisted members. In terms of China’s literacy rate, 90.9 of the people can read and write, an enviable achievement. And by the way, there are 253 million Internet users in China. The issue of the Chinese government’s blocking of websites, however, (including initially, by the way yours truly the Philosophical Traveller) is just one of the major issues that the international community is monitoring. In an address to students during his recent visit to Shanghai, President Barack Obama criticized what he referred to as internet censorship, while addressing students, while at the same time praising freedom of expression and political participation.

(Readers and Internet users may also be interested in the China Internet Project’s website China Digital Times, but as is always the case in the media world, caveat lector.)

Also, in terms of the global travel and tourism industry, it is important to factor in that China’s economy is ranked third in the world, behind that of the United States and Japan with a GDP of $4.4 trillion.  And a United Nations World Tourism Organization study in 2007, found that that China will produce 100 million outbound tourists by 2020; thus becoming even more of a player in the competitive world of travel and tourism.

China would appear to be adapting to the passage of time, and other global events, such as the most recent worldwide recession. On October 1, 2009, it celebrated “Sixty Years of Brilliance”; the 60th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China.

And by the way, the Chinese Communist Party was founded in 1921 in Shanghai!

Timeless China

Whether time heals all wounds, as the saying goes, is of course debatable but time and history are also relentless. And the city of Shanghai, as a kind of New China prototype, is striving to take advantage of the 21st-century frame of reference in which it finds itself. At the same time, it is not turning a blind eye to the past; but in many ways is integrating the past with the present.

Images and Imagery of China

For visual narratives of Shanghai, Beijing, Xi’ian, Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Fengjing, visit my Flikr site using the links below.

Surreptitious Shanghai

Contemplating Four Chinese Cities

Grassroots Beijing and Environs

Video Moments in China

Classical Ballet With a Chinese Flavour

Jazz Ballet Chinese-Style

The Art of the Chinese Acrobat

Chinese Lotus Dancers

Generational voices

As we make our way on foot through the highlands of Martinique, I realize that we are also entering the heartland of a distinct Caribbean culture in which the voices of many generations still resonate.

We have meandered through what are called the Creole Gardens, and the complementary and stunning physical landscape in which they thrive. These small private farms on the volcanic slopes of Martinique’s lush interior are intricately and skillfully integrated into a nutrient-rich ecosystem, which in many ways is also the essence of this culturally resource-rich island.

Biological and cultural diversity

Sometimes called les jardins de résistance (the gardens of resistance), these well-ordered plots of land today are models of sustainability and regenerative agricultural practices. They are also representative of a culture of self-determination; and of a deep sense of interconnectedness between a benevolent terrain and the people it has nurtured.

This is the soul of Martinique, fondly known as the Fleur des Caraïbes − the flower of the Caribbean.

But the Creole Gardens are also appropriate symbols for the struggles and ultimate triumphs of the heterogeneous culture of Martinique, a collective self-actualization that has been in progress for hundreds of years. It is these layers of history and culture that make up the mosaic of Martinique, evoking an historical awareness of the long-ago colonial aspirations of European powers and of empire-building. But at the core of the complex narrative that is Martinique is also the institution of slavery.

When France abolished slavery in its overseas colonies in March 1818, only 45 years before Abraham Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation, a Creole culture began to flourish which would blend French traditions, mores, and a legal and social infrastructure with that of the oral history and traditions of people of African descent.

As was the case on other Caribbean islands, Martinique was part of the plantation economies in the West Indies colonies, of France especially. As a result, many of these islands began to thrive as centres for the export of sugar. But the forced labour of the black slaves on these sugar plantations was cruel and harsh, more so even than that of the cotton plantations of the American South.

And when emancipation came, the people of Martinique, who were then very much a blend of the Old and New Worlds, became the principal source of a renaissance and cultural élan by emphasizing this prodigious and magnificent island’s natural resources, and its intrinsic beauty. As Bertrand Russell said, “extreme hopes are born from extreme misery.” This is the transcendent beauty of Martinique.

Heritage travel

Canadians especially will identify with the island’s biodiversity as well as with its multicultural heritage; discovering layers of meaningfulness and a quiet passion that underscores the resourcefulness and insight that this rich natural environment engenders. And like the Creole Gardens, this relatively small island destination has an abundance of natural treasures as well as historical and heritage sites that both enlighten and entertain.

The hues and shades of the social fabric and natural history of Martinique are also reflected in the preservation and careful maintenance of sites such as the Parc régional de la Caravelle, an extensive 2.5-hectare nature preserve of considerable biological importance given its nutrient-rich mangroves. Nearby is the Château Dubuc, one of the island’s former sugar plantations with spectacular views and seascapes. The château dates from 1773 and today is tangible evidence of the historic and commercial importance of Martinique as a former colony of France. The Habitation Clément, a former rum distillery, today is a wonderful example of the kind of impeccably restored heritage site you will find in Martinique. The estate’s colonial-era buildings, contemporary art gallery, and luxuriant landscapes are worth a half-day visit at least.

A year-round destination, Martinique is known for its excellent infrastructure, accommodation to suit all needs and budgets, golf courses à la Robert Trent Jones, the glorious Tour des Yoles sailing race in August, horticultural travel at its best, and sustainable tourism.

The list of content-rich sites and unique experiences in Martinique is almost endless. But what also makes up the persona of Martinique is its aesthetic qualities and grassroots experiences. Here people and human culture matter, and in the classical French tradition everything is accomplished with finesse and style − especially in the culinary arts. Martinique is a gourmet destination in all respects, but it is also the beau idéal of what has come to be known as “slow food” culture. Local markets, especially the one in the capital of Fort-de-France, epitomize eating well.

The economy of Martinique is strong because of a discerning tourism industry which celebrates the island’s diversity. Agriculture is also a fundamental component of the economy; in particular in the growing of organic foods, the cultivation of bananas, and to some extent sugar cane, which today is used primarily for the production of rum. Fourteen per cent of the active population of Martinique work in the agricultural industry, compared to four per cent in what Martinicans call France Métropolitaine − “Metropolitan France”. Therefore, for those interested in agritourism − one of the fastest growing sectors in the tourism industry − immersing yourself in this harmonious landscape can be a purposeful and enriching travel experience.

Value-added Martinique

The alluring ecosystems of Martinique create a medley of sensory experiences in a landscape that welcomes up close and personal travel. It is indeed “the flower of the Caribbean”, an eclectic, inclusive, and sensory-rich destination where beauty is in the eye of the beholder – everywhere.

And Martinique’s beauty is all-encompassing.

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Personal recommendations in Martinique

La Savane des Esclaves

This superb attraction is another excellent example of how the people of Martinique preserve and create an in-depth awareness of their heritage. Conceived and managed by Gilbert Larose, a highly committed and self-taught historian, cultural anthropologist, and environmentalist, the Savane des Esclaves is a walk through Creole history and a lesson in how slavery played a key role in the Caribbean.  See La Savane des Esclaves

Habitation Clément

As I have mentioned in the text above, this former sugar plantation and rum distillery is also social and cultural history at its best. It is also an art gallery and, in my view, a wonderful example of how contemporary art installations fulfill many purposes. See Habitation Clément.

Le Tour des Yoles

A yole is a unique and indigenous boat traditionally used by Martinique fishers; and was often used to travel from island to island throughout the Caribbean. It too is social history in Martinique. The famous race Le Tour des Yoles Rondes takes place in August and is an event that draws large crowds of locals as well as international visitors. It is also one of the biggest and most fun events of the year in Martinique. See Le Tour des Yoles. At this site you can see actual videos. For more photos see Images and Imagery in Martinique on my Flikr site.

E-discover and Bruno Dompierre

The Segway has become a popular means of exploring a number of destinations. You can either hike or go by Segway along what is called Sentiers des Caraïbes (The Paths of the Carib Indians) which runs along beautiful beaches on the southern coast of Martinique, through local campgrounds and picnic areas, and through important wildlife viewing and indigenous ecosystems. For more information watch the video The Coolest Way to See Martinique. See also www.e-discover.fr.

Parc naturel régional de la Martinique

On a peninsula stretching out into the Caribbean is a Martinique ecotourism destination that for lovers of all things natural and biological, should not be missed. This regional park has numerous hiking trails that take you through Mangroves all the way to the sea. If you go with a guide, you will also be engaging in one of the best life-long learning through travel experiences in the Caribbean. See Martinique Nature.

Nearby is also the Château Dubuc, another historical and heritage site that is not to be missed. The views from this property are also stupendous and despite its troubled history, one understands why the European powers saw this part of the world as a source of wealth. See Château Dubuc.

Agritourism in Martinique

This form of grassroots travel is becoming increasingly popular around the world as travellers become more and more conscious of the important (and sometimes precarious) earth-based resources. One such farm-stay experience is provided by Auberge Le Domaine de la Vallée. See  www.martinique-domaine-vallee.com.

Golfing in Martinique

If you golf in Martinique, the biggest challenge will be keeping your eye on the ball, as opposed to being distracted by the landscapes and seascapes. See www.golfmartinique.com

Le Domaine de Saint-Aubin, Trinité, Martinique

This former sugar plantation is an excellent choice for those who want a quiet “home away from home” experience. It is also a a gastronomic experience. See http://ledomainesaintaubin.com.

Pierre & Vacances

For families especially, this full service and “full program” vacation stay hotel (an institution unto itself in France) will provide for all your needs. See www.pierreetvacances.com

Hotel Bambou

Each individual bungalow is decorated in traditional Creole style and wins my vote for most traveller-friendly accommodation on the island of Martinique. See www.hotelbambou.fr

La Table de Mamy Nounou and Hôtel La Caravelle

Another gastronomic treasure, as well as an authentic, and low-key vacation stay, this unique accommodation on a hillside above the sea and its “bonne table” is for those especially who appreciate quality as opposed to quantity. See Hôtel La Caravelle.

Tak Tak

The Tak Tak “network” (the word is Creole and means fireflies) may be the most grassroots and authentic travel experience I have had in recent years. It is a network of travel suppliers, rural gîtes (more or less the equivalent of bed and breakfast accommodation), and artisans, restaurants, nature/soft adventure experiences, in-depth historical travel experiences, and ecotourism travel. As a collective of service providers, Tak Tak is a low budget alternative to those who appreciate getting a genuine “up close and personal” view of this amazing Caribbean landscape. You may begin your day with a Creole breakfast and you will be hosted and enlightened by Martiniquais people who have a real commitment to the history and biodiversity of their island. And if you don’t speak, French do not worry. The principles and values of Tak Tak embody hospitality. They will manage to communicate with you in your language of choice somehow. What you will experience is an intercultural dialogue on a profound level. See www.taktak-martinique.com

Club Med Les Boucaniers

I have never considered myself a Club Med type, however the Club Med chain has diversified considerably and offers many amenities to many types of clients. This property especially is wonderfully situated, well-planned in terms of its extensive layout, types of accommodation and amenities available, and in the spirit of Club Med a travel supplier that respects your sense of privacy and personal choice. See Club Med Les Boucaniers (Buccaneer’s Creek).

L’Hôtel Carayou

This medium-size hotel directly across the bay from Fort-de-France (and accessible by ferry to the capital) is an excellent location in the laid-back town of Trois Ilets where you can walk to many local attractions and amenities, especially dining.  See www.hotel-carayou.com.

Restaurant 1643

Another slightly off the beaten track gem, this restaurant (and yes the house in which it is located was built in 1643) is quintessential Martinique. See www.restaurant1643.com.

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Visualize Martinique

(a) Images and Imagery in Martinique

(b) Walking Through the Creole Gardens of Martinique

(c) The Coolest Way to See Martinique

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Other resources

(a) While http://www.martinique.org is the official international tourism website of Martinique, http://www.lamartinique.ca is the Canadian site.

(b) Air Canada has non-stop flights from Montreal to Fort-de-France, the capital of Martinique.

(c) France d’outremer

Martinique is an official overseas département of France, one of four including Guadeloupe, French Guyana in South America, and the island of La Réunion in the Indian Ocean. The island is as much a part of France as Paris or the Dordogne.

(d) Produced by Martinique Tourism, http://www.martinique-bonjour.com has an English link. There is also an English print version of the guide

(e) A link to parks and gardens in Martinique can be found in English at http://www.martinique.org/activities/parks.php. It is part of the “Official Website of the Martinique Tourism Authority”.

(f) This particular PDF site is particularly useful to both repeat visitors and first time visitors to Martinique. See Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme.

(g) For more perspective on the institution of slavery in Martinique and the Caribbean see French Slavery.

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See also … “A Walk Through the Creole Gardens of Martinique”

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A version of this article was first published in Dreamscapes magazine.

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… a podcast with Graeme Calder

Culture is one of the prime reasons we travel. And travel as a unique human behaviour — as well as a concept — is always a process; never a one-dimensional event.

In the world of travel and tourism we often talk about intercultural understanding, and travel as a means of achieving universal aims and objectives.

Permaculture is also a conceptual and pragmatic way of interacting productively with the many “systems” inherent in the universe and in human communities. It is therefore a philosophical endeavour, a mindset, but above all it is a common sense approach to land management.

It is also not difficult to draw parallels between the Permaculture movement and the travel and tourism industry, given especially the regeneration of the Heritage Movement in which a return to a grassroots and meaningful form of travel is emphasized.

In addition, the increasing emphasis on responsible tourism (often referred to as green tourism or sustainable tourism) is also for many people a preferred method of travel which follows similar principles and ethics to that of the Permaculture movement.

Permaculture emphasizes the designing of human settlements and sustainable agricultural systems which in turn reflect the natural relationships found in the universe. The movement began as an agricultural phenomenon and quickly became an international movement, and for many a way of life.

Increasingly in the world of travel journalism — a corollary “system” to travel and tourism — many are also striving to go beyond the “Where’s the beach?” school of solely consumer-oriented travel. By emphasizing the advantages of a more integrated, reciprocal, and participatory approach to travel, the travel experience is re-affirmed as the most experiential form of learning.

And as you will hear Graeme Calder explain in this podcast, there are many opportunities throughout the world to “travel” in a Permaculture mode.

Statistical footnote

According to a recent Yahoo Travel/Forbes Traveler.com article, the essence of Permaculture is also statistically consistent with travellers who want a “big trip, low impact” travel experience.

“Along those lines, sustainable and eco-friendly tourism are also on the rise–and affecting people’s travel decisions. A survey conducted by the U.S. Travel Association and Ypartnership in July 2009 shows a 9% increase from 2007 in awareness of “green travel.” Six in 10 respondents in the same survey said they believed environmental programs at travel services could have a positive impact on the environment.

The general idea of such an excursion involves minimizing harmful effects on the environment and making sure the money tourists spend in a country stays there. For example, tourists stay at local accommodations and participate in fair trade, buying goods directly from the makers.”

To read more go to “World’s most unique places to visit” by Becky Chung.

Permaculture Resources

P3 Permaculture Design

Pacific Permaculture

The Permaculture Research Institute of Australia

The Montréal Bisophere

The Green Barn Nursery

The Permaculture Guild of Montreal

Earthship Biotecture

The 9th International Permaculture Conference

“Common Circle Education – Permaculture Design Course” (Youtube)

“Permaculture in Action – Greening The Desert” (Youtube)

Art and travel

In the world of travel and tourism, the arts are the principal reason why many people travel. To some extent, however, travel can be risky business.

In his wonderful book The Art of Travel, Alain de Botton says:

“A danger of travel is that we may see things at the wrong time, before we have had an opportunity to build up the necessary receptivity, so that new information is as useless and fugitive as necklace beads without a connecting chain.”

On the other hand we may not have the necessary receptivity to see certain realities because of the old adage of not seeing the forest for the trees.

Art and Climate Change

Jeroen Bechtold is a ceramic artist that I have had the pleasure of meeting, interviewing, and writing about.

His new series “15 Claims” which focuses on Climate Change is a remarkable work that accomplishes many artistic and human objectives.

He is a traveller and artist in the most comprehensive sense of the term; and in that regard he is someone who sees the forest and the trees.

For more information, visit:

Jeroen Bechtold Ceramics, Amsterdam, NL

See also…

The Virtual and Other Realities of Jeroen Bechtold

and

Jeroen Bechtold: A Dutch Ceramist in China, Australia … and Red Deer!

A preview

To see a preview of these new works, click here.

Photograph courtesy of Jeroen Bechtold

To listen to this radio interview, click on the link below.

For a number of years I had the privilege of working with Roy Lowey: pilot, retired airline executive, owner-operator of his own airlines, radio host (WTMY Sarasota, Sunday Travel Radio, grandpa, man-for-all-seasons, and one of the funniest and most down-to-earth people I have ever known — and travelled with.

On his radio show he engages in dialogues with many different people from all sectors of the travel and tourism industry.

In a recent segment of his show, we talked about Martinique.

To see more images of Martinique, click on the following links:

Images and Imagery of Martinique

Walking Through the Creole Gardens of Martinique

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And here is Roy Lowey … the man himself!

For more information on Roy’s show visit

Talking Travel

]]> http://robefish.wordpress.com/2009/09/26/talking-to-roy-the-florida-radio-guy-about-martinique/feed/ 0 Bob Fisher image0001 headphonesymbol50 image0028 image0091 image0121 DSCN7507 DSCN7540 image0142 image0158 image0109 slideshowicon roylowey bobandroylowey350 http://robefish.wordpress.com/2009/09/15/the-chinese-diaspora-a-brief-look-at-the-power-of-culture/ http://robefish.wordpress.com/2009/09/15/the-chinese-diaspora-a-brief-look-at-the-power-of-culture/#comments Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:27:21 +0000 Bob Fisher http://robefish.wordpress.com/?p=2017 ]]>

The annual World Congress of the World Federation of Journalists and Travel Writers (FIJET) took place in Shanghai, China.

There is little doubt that human beings are a migratory species. However, even though most of us moved beyond the transient stage in our evolution and “settled down” in permanent communities – in which our diverse cultures soon began to take root – many of us continued, of necessity, to migrate throughout the world.

There are of course many historical, economic, and sociological reasons why human culture (in its various hues and shades) continued to spread far from and beyond the initial “borders” in which it developed; but history shows how these migrations also contributed to the mosaic of other indigenous cultures, and to human culture in general.

As we look to the near future, and our FIJET Congress in Shanghai, it is perhaps worthwhile attempting to get an overview of the enormous contributions that Chinese culture has made to global culture – and to many of our individual national cultures.

The numbers speak for themselves

Worldwide, there are an estimated 40,000,000 “Overseas Chinese.” These are people of Chinese birth or descent; and we must not forget the additional numbers of individuals of partial Chinese ancestry who may also consider themselves as belonging to the Chinese diaspora.

The latter term, by the way, is from the Greek and means dispersion. It also has connotations of forced exile, and a collective migration out of the traditional homeland. Also implied in the term is the immigrant experience of living as a minority in a majority culture.

In many nations around the world, this minority cultural experience has often been the norm for Overseas Chinese, and a significant hardship. In Canada for example, where I live, people of Chinese descent are the largest non-European ethnic origin in our nation today; and the fifth largest of any ethnic origin in Canada other than English or French. Most were also born outside Canada. In fact, when you include all Chinese dialects and the two principal languages of Mandarin and Cantonese, Chinese is the third largest mother tongue in Canada after English and French.

But we have a number of skeletons in the Canadian historical closet, one of them being the Chinese Head Tax. Although Chinese workers (male primarily) were the main immigrant group that built our transcontinental railway – the “national dream” that united Canada east to west and was one of the most important factors in our becoming an independent nation – the head tax was first imposed when the Canadian Government passed the Chinese Immigration Act of 1885 whose purpose was to discourage Chinese from entering Canada once the railway was completed.

A blatant example of discrimination, it took until June 22, 2006 for the Canadian government to issue a formal apology (via our current Prime Minister Steven Harper) to the Chinese Canadian community for the prejudicial use of a head tax and the exclusion of Chinese immigrants to Canada. In his speech to Parliament he said, “… we fully accept the moral responsibility to acknowledge these shameful polices of our past.”

And although people of Chinese descent are the communicators of one of the world’s greatest cultures, many have experienced similar negative experiences elsewhere on the planet. For reasons that are of course complex but nonetheless problematic, Chinese culture – which is often highly misunderstood in terms of its extraordinary diversity – the cultural “gifts” that the Chinese people collectively have contributed to human society may be unparalleled.

Integration and heritage preservation

The Chinese people have always been a migratory culture. As early as the Ming Dynasty they were exploring trade opportunities in the South China Sea and the Indian Ocean. Different waves of emigration (and subsequently immigration) followed to regions as diverse as North America, Oceania, the Caribbean, Latin America, South Africa, Russia, and Southeast Asia. In the 19th century, the age of colonialism was at its height and the many multinational colonies far from their cultural homelands required labourers, and China often supplied a pool of such workers. These people of course were most often economic refugees and frequently they worked in backbreaking and dangerous jobs such as the building of railroads and mining. This, as I have indicated, was how Canada’s transcontinental railways completed the east-west natural flow of which the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes were the first stage in the longest freshwater waterway to the interior of the North American continent.

As economic refugees, these migrant Chinese struggled long and hard to improve their lives and to successfully integrate into the “host” nation. This was not always easy as racism and other forms of discrimination often relegated them to the status of second class citizens. However, as difficult as their lives were overseas (often living isolated existences; for example along the route of the aptly named Canadian Pacific Railway where even today you can find small Chinese businesses in the smallest of communities) what they did manage to do was to hang on to their culture. And as we all know, language is the core of any culture. In many ways the Chinese who emigrated throughout the world became role models for preserving thousands of years of history and art, while at the same time contributing to infrastructure-building far from “home.” And they continued to speak Chinese.

Subsequent historic events both slowed and precipitated further emgiration. Following challenges posed by emigration regulations in the 1950s, the first steps to the transformation of Hong Kong from a British colony to a Chinese territory began in 1984. New waves of emigration began again but slowed by 1997 when China reclaimed sovereignty over the colony.

And as we now know, China has emerged (along with India) as one of the most important “business partners” in the global marketplace, especially in certain countries of Africa where development is the highest priority. The entry (or re-entry) of China as a major player in the global economy has also led to a renewed interest in all things Chinese, especially in the field of the arts. However, as is the case with any national group that leaves its cultural homeland, the Chinese have assimilated to a lesser or greater extent into the mainstream culture of the host nation. But assimilation can be a two-way street.

While assimilating and accommodating themselves to their overseas adopted nations, the Chinese also contribute to the overal “persona” of the host nation’s culture. And as we travel journalists know full well, human culture is not a static entity; it is dynamic and constantly evolving. What is interesting however, and this would appear to be global phenomenon, is that cultural diversity, multiculturalism, and the transcending of borders (both geographical, cultural, and conceptual) is becoming the new mainstream. This is especially true, for example, in Toronto which many people consider to be the the most multicultural city on the North American continent.

A question of identity

In my belief, one of the strongest attributes of travel journalists is our ability to identify with “the other.” Like all skills, this ability to relate comes with practice; with frequently “getting up close and personal” with the subject matter. In our business, that subject matter is human culture. And at this point I would like to leave the last word to Margaret Mead, the well-known American anthropolgist who said:

“If we are to achieve a richer culture, rich in contrasting values, we must recognize the whole gamut of human potentialities, and so weave a less arbitrary social fabric, one in which each diverse gift will find a fitting place.”
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Three Interesting and Related Resources

Chinatown Europe: An Exploration of Chinese Identity in the 1990s
The Chinese Cultural Centre of Greater Toronto
World Tourism Day
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FIJET (Fédération Internationale des Journalistes et Écrivains du Tourisme/World Federation of Journalists and Travel Writers) is an official member of the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO).

… including a podcast with Daniel Pouplot President and Director of la Fédération québécoise de la marche

The randonnée

Like so many words and so many cultural experiences, “it sometimes loses in the translation.”

A randonnée in French suggests a purposeful way of getting about – on foot – but at the same time there is an element of freedom that the word signifies. Whereas the word marche is probably closest to the English word “walk” or “walking,” randonnée evokes images and sensations of discovery, of getting closer to the landscape (physical, human, and cultural); and the term also suggests a means of travel that is at the pace of nature itself.

And as we discovered, Martinique is an island in which you can travel at leisure — and at your own pace.

A timeless concept

The Fédération québécoise de la marche is a not-for-profit organization that has been in existence for more than 30 years. A member-based organization, its mandate is to promote and develop what may seem to be a simple human activity, that of walking.

And yet, walking takes many forms,  from adventurous trekking, to hiking, to what in Britain is called “rambling,” to  a gentle stroll through a content-rich environment or milieu, whether it be urban or rural.

The culture of walking

As a cultural activity and a fundamental means of travel, walking has always been a principal means of exploring any destination whether it be international, national, regional, or local.

And the Fédération québécoise de la marche fulfills many functions related to this primary form of travel including providing information on special walks, bringing together all kinds of different clubs devoted to walking, and encouraging and promoting the development of pedestrian-friendly pathways.The association is also a role model for a healthy lifestyle which also emphasizes the leisure benefits of simply walking.

Made up of over 3000 members in the province of Québec and 100 other related organizations, the association also produces a magazine called Marche-Randonnée, topographical guides for walkers, and even a resource guide for walking and snowshoe trekking in the winter; an activity that is very much at the heart of the québécois culture.

The Fédération is also responsible for special events such as an annual “Festival of Walking,” “Snowshoe Festival,” and a national day devoted to the creation of walking paths. Above all, the Fédération solicits funding that supports its many activities.

Martinique as a walkers’ paradise

I met Daniel and his partner Nicole Blondeau on the island of Martinique.

La Martinique (an official département of France) is a luxuriant cultural environment in a topographical, historical, and environmental sense.

Volcanic in nature, this is a multidimensional island destination that is as fertile culturally as it is agriculturally. Furthermore, Martinique is an island that is a mosaic of sensory experiences, and a destination in which you can get up close and personal with the landscape.

And as we often say, landscape shapes culture.

Organic farming Creole-style

In Martinique, the Creole Gardens are one of the best examples you will find anywhere of good land management, of cultural self-determination, and of natural beauty.

Without a doubt, the economy of Martinique benefits from tourism because of its natural and cultural diversity. The industry of agriculture however is also a fundamental component of the island’s economy, in particular the cultivation of bananas, and to some extent sugar cane which is used primarily for the production of rum. It is important to point out that 14 per cent of the active population of Martinique work in the agricultural industry (compared to four per cent in what the Martinicans call La Métropolitaine ( “metropolitan France”).

The “Creole Gardens” we visited in the highlands of the interior of the island are maintained by individuals and families who work in other sectors of the economy of Martinique but at the same time pursue centuries-old farming practices on the nutrient-rich slopes and small cleared fields of the island.

For those interested in agritourism (one of the fastest growing sectors of the travel and tourism industry) a walk through this unique and very bio-diversified terrain is a highly engaging and horticulturally-rich travel experience.

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Other walks recommended by Daniel Pouplot and Nicole Blondeau

1. The “wet” rainforest

Starting from Fond-Saint-Denis, just east of the old capital of Saint-Pierre, Daniel and Nicole completed a circuit in the tropical forests of the neighbouring mountains. Towards the end of their walk, they also visited a section of Le canal des Esclaves (the Slave Canal) which is an historic small irrigation canal constructed by slaves about 1770.

Their guide was Richard Montredon of the tour provider Ékokay, a “green tourism” company that also specializes in walking tours.

2. The nature reserve of la Caravelle

I also had the pleasure of accompanying Daniel and Nicole on a walk through this natural reserve on a peninsula in the north-east part of the island. Le Parc Naturel Régional de la Caravelle is especially well-known for its mangrove and dry forest, both unique environments that are excellent examples of natural sustainable and regenerative ecosystems. Nearby are also the ruins of Château Dubuc, a stunning site with magnificent views. Near the town of La Trinité, the Château is also an important heritage site as it is an historic sugar plantation, in terms of its black history, and in terms of the role it played in the extermination of the Carib Indians (who  called the island Madinina the “island of flowers”), and because it was a site known for its extensive smuggling operations.

3. La Trace des Caps

Martinique has an official Bureau de la Randonnée, a government agency that promotes walking throughout the island. La Trace des Caps is a walking trail that follows some of the most beautiful beaches you will ever see in the Caribbean, along the most southernly coast of the island. Its total length is 27 kilometres but you can begin and end your walk at numerous locations.

Daniel and Nicole were accompanied by their guide Éric Exili, de Sentiers des Caraïbes. (Be sure to watch the video “The Coolest Way to Visit Martinique.”)

4. Mt. Pelée

On May 8, 1902, Mt. Pelée erupted, destroying the city of Saint-Pierre, once known as the Paris of the Caribbean. The eruption also killed over 30,000 people. However, as ironic as it may seem, and as is the case in so many areas of volcanic activity throughout the world, the soil eventually became enriched again and the inhabitants (farmers especially) returned because the land was cheap.

One can walk up and around Mt. Pelée using a number of different routes and hiking trails. Daniel and Nicole followed the Aileron trail on the eastern side of the mountain. In my chat with Daniel, you will hear him refer to “the Chinese” (in French Le Chinois) which is the summit of the mountain because it is said to resemble a conical Chinese hat. Often in the clouds, Mt. Pelée, as Daniel points out, is also a botanist’s dream.

Their guide was Christian Bapin of the company Terre de Mornes.

I found the article “How Volcanoes Work” on the website of the University of San Diego especially useful for understanding the importance of Mt. Pelée and other volcanoes like it.

5. The Creole Gardens Walk

For me, the most significant walk in socio-cultural terms was our walk through the Creole Gardens in the highlands of Martinique accompanied by one of the most learned and committed guides I have ever had the pleasure of knowing.

Patrick Duchel is un homme à tout faire (a jack of all trades but also a master of many). The proprietor of the gîte aux Z’Amandines (a rural hospitality provider not unlike a bed and breakfast), Patrick is a member of the Réseau Tak-Tak, a collective of relatively low-cost suppliers of accommodation, soft adventure activities, and other hospitality providers, all of which emphasize the “up close and personal” authentic travel experience in Martinique. For those who are especially interested engaging in first-hand encounters with the history, heritage, and rich ecosystems of Martinique, the Réseau Tak-Tak may be for you.

As you will see from my Flikr slideshow, Patrick took us into the heart of the Creole experience in Martinique. Along the way, he also gave us lessons in biology and botany that provided an in-depth understanding of this island’s extraordinary natural resources. And experiencing first hand “the interconnectedness and interdependence of all things,” we also were given perspective and insights into the complex and rich history of Martinique.

The Creole Gardens are also referred to as Les jardins de résistance (the gardens of resistance), which is both an appropriate metaphor for this nutrient-rich landscape but also a very realistic expression of Creole history in Martinique and the struggles of people of African descent in this former French colony.

When slavery was finally abolished by France in its overseas colonies, Black Martinicans gained the right to own property in the interior. Initially, farming these small and quite inaccessible plots of land, was certainly a challenge for newly emancipated people. However — and this is why Martinique is also an island that symbolizes self-determination — today these gardens are models of sustainable agriculture.

For more information see the following:

Organic agriculture in Martinique

What Lies Beneath? Cultural Excavation in Neocolonial Martinique

Space and identity in Martinique: towards a new reading of the spatial history of the peasantry

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To take a virtual walk through the Creole Gardens of Martinique, click here.

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Resources

Marche et Randonnée

The official website of Martinique

“The Coolest Way to Visit Martinique”

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COMING SOON to a national Canadian magazine:

“Multidimensional Martinique: Where Landscape Shapes Culture”

ALSO COMING SOON to The Philosophical Traveller

“Le Tour des Yoles: A Singular Sailing Race in Martinique”

If you are a person of a certain age, you will probably remember Robert Pirsig’s Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance; and you may also remember the surprising effect the book had on the general culture of travel in North America.

Published in 1974, the book became a literary and cultural icon as the author took those of us who were heavily into the loosy-goosy counter-culture movement of that period of time; when it was not only permissible but encouraged to think and behave in unconventional ways and to go travelling (or questing) in search of higher truths, especially metaphysical ones.

Let’s not forget the tenor of the times: the Civil Rights Movement, the Women’s Movement, the beginning of the Gay Rights Movement; and the winding down of the Vietnam War. The latter of course hit hard at the metaphysical core of America; and when I say America I mean Canada as well as the United States because there is always an overflow across the (formerly) “longest undefended border in the world.”

It was a time of general angst and collective questioning of “What’s it all about, Alfie?” However, it was also the “best of times, the worst of times,” in that, despite the struggles and the aforementioned angst, there was also a renewed idealism and search for truth in North American society. It was also a time when quality of life and individual self-expression were also being re-assessed and articulated differently.

The Cleaver family was well on its way to the recycling bin.

So when Pirsig’s book came along, it struck a Jungian chord with many. In part I believe this was because the quest that Pirsig’s alter ego undertakes — he is not identified in the book, although with the luxury of hindsight we can see how much of Persig is in the character who he is trekking across the country on his motorcycle with his son Chris with whom he is struggling to bond — has a lot to do with something very fundamental to the human condition, to wit — the road trip.

Now the road trip is really nothing new. The first travellers, maybe even travel journalists — have you ever thought of yourself as a troubadour? — went where they went and saw what they saw and achieved whatever level of enlightenment they did … on foot.

Was Marco Polo a travel journalist, a kind of Paul Theroux of ancient times? What great stories were told along those caravan routes, along the pilgrimage routes? How many of the Canterbury Tales are really travel stories? And are we, the lah dee dah travel journalists of the 21st century, really any different from the motley crowd of pilgrims who made there often randy way from Southwork to Canterbury Cathedral?

And now if I could get my head back into the 20th century for a moment, I must also pay homage to the Jack Kerouacs of the world who had also gone where angels fear to tread long before Robert Pirsig and his literary doppleganger did.

Quite simply, the road trip has become a staple in our psyches and collective consciousness. I was reminded once again of this fact recently in Missouri as we rushed hither and yon (on the most intense media tour I have ever been on) across that betwixt and between state. And as we did so, we followed Interstate 44.

However, weaving its ghostly presence back and forth along our journey was the equally iconic and resonant Route 66.

Well if you ever plan to motor west,
Just take my way, that’s the highway that’s the best.
Get your kicks on Route sixty-six.

And in his recent New Yorker article on his own culturally conflicted and morally painful road trek across Siberia, Ian Frazier writes:

“In America, we love roads. To be ‘on the road’ is to be happy and alive and free. Whatever lonesomeness the road implies is also a blankness that soon will be filled with possibility. A road leading to the horizon almost always signifies a hopeful vista for Americans. ‘Riding off into the sunset has always been our happy ending.”

These days, travelling by road, especially in and around our major megalopolises, can be be a hair-raising and even dispiriting experience, but when you hit that true open road, happy endings cannot be too far away. And that is why it still gives me a pang when I read Pirsig’s introduction to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance:

“The study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself. Working on a motorcycle, working well, caring, is to become part of a process, to achieve an inner peace of mind. The motorcycle is primarily a mental phenomenon.”

I’m still waiting for the inner peace of mind; and still not sure what I want to be when I grow up, but in terms of what Pirsig was exploring in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance I still get it.

Back to the future

So, one day a friend brought me a new book that turned out to be déjà vu all over again, as our good friend Yogi Berra once said. The book is titled Zen and Now: On the Trail of Robert Pirsig and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Mark Richardson, editor of the “Wheels” section of the Toronto Star.

At first I was sceptical about the book and hesitated opening it. Like many I prefer to remember certain experiences and moments in time as I choose to remember them, godammit!. I am always a bit concerned when someone writes a book about a famous book; and possibly reformats the first experience in such away that all the romance goes out of that long-term stored memory.

And by the way, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance is most certainly a romance novel, but only in the truest sense of that word. From the French roman meaning novel, the definition of romance that speaks to me best is “a medieval narrative, originally one in verse and in some Romance dialect, treating of heroic, fantastic, or supernatural events, often in the form of allegory.”

Allegory. The trip. The journey. The quest. The romance.

I am definitely not talking Sleepless in Seattle.

Fortunately, Richardson’s book did not either gild the lily nor disillusion me, although he certainly paints a portrait of Pirsig that sheds a whole new light on Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. I don’t want to give too much of it away, but in many ways Richardson continues Pirsig’s journey with all its inherent conflicts, doubts, and angst. For example, he sets just the right tone when he says:

“It’s tough to explain to someone who’s only ever traveled behind a windshield, sealed in with the comforting thunk of a closing door. On a bike there’s no comforting thunk. The road is right there below you, blurring past your feet, ready to scuff your sole should you pull your boot from the peg and let it touch the ground.”

This particular excerpt resonates with me (even though I am a non-biker) because there have been trips (even media trips) in which that immediacy of experience of the destination is so strongly felt; and in my experience it is always connected to some person or persons who have embodied the truly authentic sense of the place.

If you have read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, you will remember that key metaphysical element of this “trip” is Pirsig’s search for quality and his attempt to define it. Richardson does a similar thing, in part I suspect because he too was at a crossroads in his life where he was starting to doubt what “it” was all about. I’m only guessing mind you, but get this.

Richardson writes:

“It was Zen that brought me here and Zen that helped get me to the top [of a mountain]. Just as readers who like motorcycles are attracted to Pirsig’s book, so are readers who appreciate Zen. And both sides are often disappointed that Zen and the Art isn’t really about either motorcycles or Zen…. There’s just not enough time to get to everything in this modern overstuffed, overtaxed, overindulgent world…. The moral here is [he's actually talking about a particularly vexing maintenance issue Pirsig is having but I suspect their spirits have coalesced] that it doesn’t matter how much physical care you apply to something — if your mind gets stuck along the way way or your heart’s not in it, the work will be substandard. Quality will be lost. Substance needs art. Ying and Yang.”

Anyone out there ever experienced writer’s block?

Anyone ever felt they were being asked to dumb it down just a touch so that the travel piece was a little more marketable?

Another road trip book and “must read,” recommended by yours truly

Volkswagen Blues

… with Bijan Bayne

Yoo Hoo Mrs. Goldberg

Human theatre comes in many forms; but essential to the human drama, which so many distinct travel destinations embody, are the elements of character, characterization, and dramatic conflict.

The Borough of The Bronx in New York City is the stage on which many stories have been played out. As one of the initial and principal centres of immigration to the United States – and a multi-ethnic and multicultural one – The Bronx has been one of the major settings for the arrival of immigrants escaping poverty, tyranny, or simply looking for opportunities that circumstances denied them.

And as the character of Molly Goldberg demonstrates (in the multiple senses of the word “character”), the social history of  The Bronx is is one of layers of meaning and meaningfulness.

As a spokesperson for an iconic and diverse community in which the struggle to “fit in” was a constant need and drive, Molly Goldberg (a character created by Gertrude Berg) is in many ways an expression of the survival and flourishing of both the individual and collective self.

As you will hear my friend and colleague Bijan Bayne explain in this podcast, Molly Goldberg became an iconic figure because she represented strength of character and a simple sense of humanity.

To hear my chat with Bijan, click on the audio button at the top of this page.

Aviva Kempner’s Portrait of Molly Goldberg

In her award-winning documentary, Aviva paints a loving portrait of an archetypal figure. In her own words, she says:

“In Yoo-Hoo, Mrs. Goldberg I’m delighted to document the amazing accomplishments of the talented Gertrude Berg.  I am in awe of how this woman would wake up at six in the morning, write her shows, and then go off to the studio to produce. Without missing a beat she seamlessly performed Molly to perfection.  Here is a woman who wrote the most positive portrayal of a Jewish mother and her family during the decades that severely threatened American and European Jewry. It is more amazing still that she crafted such a warm maternal figure in spite of her own mother’s mental illness. Berg created the “perfect mother” she never experienced in her own life.”

For more information on Aviva Kempner’s delightful documentary “Yoo Hoo Mrs. Goldberg,” visit  www.mollygoldbergfilm.org.

To read reviews of the film, click on one of the links below:

Yoo Hoo Gertrude Berg!

Gertrude Berg was a multitalented woman who learned early on in life to use her intuitive skills and talents  in the comprehensive and interconnected community that early radio and television gave birth to.

For more information on Gertrude Berg herself, see “Gertrude Berg: From Tillie to Molly.”

Bronx resources and links

I Love the Bronx! (the official website of The Bronx Tourism Council

TV Party and The Remarkable Gertrude Berg

Bronx History and Books on the Bronx

See and hear Molly Goldberg here.

Watch Gertrude Berg as the mystery guest confuse the panelists on the classic TV show “What’s My Line.”

• “Yoo-Hoo, Mrs. Goldberg does an exemplary job of celebrating the seminal achievements of Gertrude Berg and reaffirming her status as a broadcasting pioneer.”
• “An engrossing nostalgia bath … a window into a bygone world.”
• “A rousing portrait of Berg… inspirational look at one of the key pioneers in both radio and TV…”
• “Before Oprah, Before Martha, There Was Gertrude Berg”
• “Why would you miss it? Go already!”

More social history in The Bronx

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